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Pursuits

New York Now Has Better Indian Food Than London

An enterprising chef-restaurateur duo upends long-held dining wisdom.

An array of dishes at Dhamaka shows why New York is beating London at the Indian food game.

An array of dishes at Dhamaka shows why New York is beating London at the Indian food game.

Source: Dhamaka

It’s something I’ve suspected for several years and suggested sotto voce to friends, but now can say out loud: New York City has better Indian food than London.

I say this after a few dinners at Dhamaka. The latest collaboration between restaurateur Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya is the ras-malai, the end-of-meal sweet, that rounds off the perfect maha-bhoj, or grand feast, of the city’s Indian dining options. I can drill down to a single dish that confirms New York’s primacy: the baked rabbit known as Rajasthani khargosh.